Endnotes

  1. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2022). An introduction to circular design. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/news/an-introduction-to-circular-design

  2. Apparel Impact Institute. (2025, July 22). Taking stock of progress against the roadmap to net zero 2025. https://apparelimpact.org/resources/taking-stock-of-progress-against-the-roadmap-to-net-zero-2025/

  3. Apparel Impact Institute. (2024, September 24). Fashion industry sees 7% emissions spike driven by overproduction and polyester use.https://apparelimpact.org/resources/fashion-industry-sees-7-emissions-spike-driven-by-overproduction-and-polyester-use/

  4. Granskog, A., & Lee, L. (2020, October 19). The fashion industry can reduce emissions across the entire value chain. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/sustainability/our-insights/sustainability-blog/the-fashion-industry-can-reduce-emissions-across-the-entire-value-chain

  5. Textile Exchange. (2025). Materials market report.https://2d73cea0.delivery.rocketcdn.me/app/uploads/2025/09/Materials-Market-Report-2025.pdf

  6. Seo, K.-W., Ryu, D., Jeon, T., Youm, K., Kim, J.-S., Oh, E. H., Chen, J., Famiglietti, J. S., & Wilson, C. R. (2025). Abrupt sea level rise and Earth’s gradual pole shift reveal permanent hydrological regime changes in the 21st century. Science, 387(6741), 1408–1413. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.adq6529

  7. Niinimäki, K. (2020, April). The environmental price of fast fashion. ResearchGate. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/340635670_The_environmental_price_of_fast_fashion

  8. European Parliament. (2020). Fast fashion: EU laws for sustainable textile consumption. https://www.europarl.europa.eu/topics/en/article/20201208STO93327/fast-fashion-eu-laws-for-sustainable-textile-consumption

  9. Global Living Wage Coalition. (n.d.). Garment / textile archives.https://www.globallivingwage.org/industries/garment-textile/

  10. The Industry We Want. (n.d.). Wages.https://www.theindustrywewant.com/wages

  11. Korhonen, A., & Niinimäki, K. (2024). Framing regenerative fashion. In A. Schramme & N. Verboven (Eds.), Sustainability and the fashion industry: Can fashion save the world? Routledge.

  12. Soloviev, E. R., & Landua, G. (2016). Levels of regenerative agriculture. Terra Genesis International. https://ethansoloviev.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Levels-of-Regenerative-Agriculture.pdf

  13. Bonnicksen, T. M. (2000). America’s ancient forests: From the Ice Age to the age of discovery. Wiley.

  14. ‌Interview with Bobby Gill.

  15. ‌Savory Institute. (n.d.). EOV: Measuring regenerative outcomes for food and fiber.https://savory.global/eov/

  16. Interview with La Rhea Pepper.

  17. Exploring the impact of the U.S. regenerative cotton fund. (2022, January 21). Soil Health Institute. https://soilhealthinstitute.org/our-work/initiatives/us-regenerative-cotton-fund/#overview

  18. Velasquez, A. (2025, April). New Report Highlights the Financial Gains of Regenerative Agriculture. WWD. https://wwd.com/sourcing-journal/sj-denim/report-highlights-financial-gains-regenerative-agriculture-1238849961/

  19. Ogilvy, S., Gardner, M., Mallawaarachchi, T., Schirmer, J., Brown, K., & Heagney, E. (n.d.). Graziers with better profitability, biodiversity and wellbeing: Exploring the potential for improving environmental, social and economic outcomes in agriculture.https://www.vbs.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Graziers-with-better-profit-and-biodiversity_Final-2019.pdf

  20. VITO. (2023, October 10). New tool ‘True Cost Calculator’ maps full impact of a garment. https://vito.be/en/news/new-tool-true-cost-calculator-maps-full-impact-garment

  21. Romero Briones, A.-dae. (2021). Regeneration—from the beginning. Nonprofit Quarterly, (Reprint 2021), 50–55. https://nonprofitquarterly.org/regeneration-from-the-beginning/

  22. Teague, R., & Barnes, M. (2017). Grazing management that regenerates ecosystem function and grazingland livelihoods. African Journal of Range & Forage Science, 34(2), 77–86. https://doi.org/10.2989/10220119.2017.1334706

  23. Trimarco, T., Brummer, J. E., Buchanan, C., & Ippolito, J. A. (2023). Tracking soil health changes in a management-intensive grazing agroecosystem. Soil Systems, 7(4), 94. https://doi.org/10.3390/soilsystems7040094

  24. Eisenstein, C. (2019, April 10). Climate: A new story.https://archive.charleseisenstein.org/books/climate-a-new-story/eng/healing-the-soil/

  25. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service. (n.d.). Cotton and wool: Cotton sector at a glance. https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/crops/cotton-and-wool/

  26. Fibershed. (2025, May 30). Climate beneficial™ cotton: Building soil health and resilient supply chains. https://fibershed.org/2025/05/30/climate-beneficial-cotton/

  27. ‌Interview with Stacy Flynn.

  28. Interview with Reina Ovinge.

  29. Islam, S., Parvin, F., Urmy, Z., Ahmed, S., Arifuzzaman, M., Yasmin, J., & Islam, F. (2020). A study on the human health benefits, human comfort properties, and ecological influences of natural sustainable textile fibers. European Journal of Physiotherapy and Rehabilitation Studies, 1(1). https://oapub.org/hlt/index.php/EJPRS/article/view/47/46

  30. Interview with Mali Mrozinski.

  31. Interview with Barbara Tetteh-Appain.

  32. ‌Interview with Alice Grau.

  33. World Economic Forum. (n.d.). The cost of inaction: A CEO guide to navigating climate risk. https://www.weforum.org/publications/the-cost-of-inaction-a-ceo-guide-to-navigating-climate-risk/

  34. Gandhi, S., Dassu, I., Jones, C., & Shinde, M. (2023, December 6). The time for supply chain regeneration is now. Kearney. https://www.kearney.com/service/operations-performance/article/the-time-for-supply-chain-regeneration-is-now

  35. Regrow Ag. (2023, May 23). Building supply chain resilience through regenerative agriculture.https://www.regrow.ag/post/building-supply-chain-resilience-through-regenerative-agriculture

  36. Janmark, J., Magnus, K.-H., Marcos, I., & Wiener, E. (2024, March 28). Sustainable style: How fashion can afford and accelerate decarbonization. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/sustainable-style-how-fashion-can-afford-and-accelerate-decarbonization

  37. Earth Finance. (2024, January 25). Quantifying the business benefits of a regenerative value chain. https://www.earthfinance.com/insights/quantifying-the-business-benefits-regenerative-value-chain

  38. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. (2015). Benefits of healthy watersheds. https://www.epa.gov/hwp/benefits-healthy-watersheds

  39. GEP. (2023, April 11). Supply chain diversification is key to building resiliency. https://www.gep.com/blog/strategy/supply-chain-diversification-is-key-to-building-resiliency

  40. ‌Interview with Naglaa Ahmed.

  41. Fairtrade International. (2025). What is Fairtrade?https://www.fairtrade.net/us-en/why-fairtrade/what-we-do/what-is-fairtrade.html

  42. Salter, J. (2025). Fair trade foundations and regenerative futures. In P. Kenel, P. Sawall, L. Pfeifer, U. Bettig, & J. Michel (Eds.), Fair fashion?: Interdisciplinary perspectives in the context of social, ecological, economic and cultural sustainability (pp. 7). [transcript] Independent Academic Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839476666-014

  43. Ladiges, J. (2025). Strength-based design in the textile and fashion industry. In P. Kenel, P. C. Sawall, L. Pfeifer, U. Bettig, & J. Michel (Eds.), Fair fashion? Interdisciplinary perspectives in the context of social, ecological, economic and cultural sustainability (pp. 143–154). [transcript] Independent Academic Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839476666-010

  44. Interview with Nica Rabinowitz

  45. Rockström, J., Steffen, W., Noone, K., et al. (2009). A safe operating space for humanity. Nature, 461(7263), 472–475. https://doi.org/10.1038/461472

  46. Nagfernandes, S., & Mowery, J. (2025). Creating a regenerative organizational culture. Beyond the Project Horizon: Journal of the Center for Project Management Innovation, 2(1). https://doi.org/10.59964/2993-2556.1020

  47. Cotton Town. (2019). Import of raw materials. https://www.cottontown.org/The%20Cotton%20Industry/Pages/Import-of-Raw-Materials.aspx

  48. Beckert, S. (2014). Empire of cotton: A global history. Alfred A. Knopf. p. 8.

  49. Singh, H. (2020, August 14). Tula: A return to India’s regenerative cotton roots. Fibershed. https://fibershed.org/2020/08/14/tula-a-return-to-indias-regenerative-cotton-roots/

  50. Beckert, S. (2014) Empire of cotton: A global history. Alfred A. Knopf. p. 326.

  51. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service. (n.d.). Cotton and wool: Cotton sector at a glance. https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/crops/cotton-and-wool/cotton-sector-at-a-glance/

  52. Kimmerer, R. W. (2020). On choosing to belong to a place. Common Good Collective. https://commongood.cc/reader/on-choosing-to-belong-to-a-place/

  53. Tourinho, B. (2024, November 27). Why are Brazilian sustainable fashion brands a cultural revolution? The Robin Report. https://therobinreport.com/why-are-brazilian-sustainable-fashion-brands-a-cultural-revolution/

  54. Dunlap, A. S. (2013). Slow clothes on the California horizon: Fibershed. Wild Fibers Magazine. http://fibershed.org/publications/WildFibersMag2013.pdf

  55. Burgess, R. (2023, December 15). Redefining fashion’s future: Rebecca Burgess envisions tomorrow’s textile landscape. Fibershed. https://fibershed.org/2023/12/15/redefining-fashions-future-rebecca-burgess-envisions-tomorrows-textile-landscape/

  56. Interview with Dieter van den Broeck.

  57. Agrarian Trust. (2025, January 23). About us.https://www.agrariantrust.org/about-us/

  58. Wurtz, N. (2023, May 23). Regenerative farmers need land. Agrarian Trust. https://www.agrariantrust.org/regenerative-farmers-need-land/

  59. Kurth, T., Subei, B., Plötner, P., & Havermeier, M. (2025). Accelerating the transition to regenerative agriculture. Boston Consulting Group. p. 8. https://www.bcg.com/publications/2025/germany-accelerating-the-transition-to-regenerative-agriculture

  60. ‌Interview with Felipe Urioste.

  61. ‌Organic Cotton Accelerator. (2024). Annual report 2023: Scaling organic cotton for a greener future. https://annual-report-2023.organiccottonaccelerator.org/scaling-organic-cotton-for-a-greener-future.html

  62. Tonti, L. (2023). Sundressed: Natural fabrics and the future of clothing. Island Press. p. 11.

Photo credits Principal photography by Michael Chung, Esther Havens, Bady Abbas, Mohammad Zeeshan, Gabriel Jimenez, and Mark Timberlake. Case study photography courtesy of The Knitwit Stable, Global Mamas, SEKEM, Tula, and Fibershed.